In the world of fashion, few names carry the weight and legacy of Cristóbal Balenciaga. The Spanish couturier was hailed as the “master of us all” by Christian Dior and the epitome of a true couturier by Coco Chanel. Today, under the creative direction of Demna Gvasalia, Balenciaga made headlines, once again, embracing both tradition and innovation. On July 5th, the prestigious fashion house presented its 52nd Couture Collection in the opulent salons at 10 Avenue George V in Paris, a tribute to pursuing perfection and paying homage to its storied heritage.
Honouring Balenciaga’s Legacy
Demna’s third Couture Collection for Balenciaga opened with a moment of reverence. Danielle Slavik, Balenciaga’s house model from 1964 to 1968, graced the runway wearing an interpretation of her favourite Cristóbal-era piece, a classic black velvet gown adorned with ruched flowers and a pearl necklace. This gown, beloved not only by Slavik but also by Grace Kelly, brought forth the fusion of past and present, connecting the legacy of the brand to the modern era.
Throughout the collection, Demna explored architectural tailoring, a hallmark of Cristóbal’s designs. The sharp shoulders, curved V-necklines, and sculpted waists reflected a contemporary take on the master’s iconic silhouettes. The designer presented suits crafted from Japanese denim woven on antique looms, which gave the appearance of pinstriped wool. A subtle nod to modern technology in replicating traditional textures.
Demna Gvasalia’s Innovative Craftsmanship
An intriguing feature of the collection was the use of trompe l’œil, a technique of creating optical illusions in fashion. Hand-painted linen canvas panels were assembled into garments that appeared to be fur coats or denim jeans. In reality, they were sophisticated fabric manipulations achieved through oil paint brushstrokes.
Demna’s dedication to craftsmanship was evident in every detail. The garments underwent meticulous hand-sculpting to create the illusion of windblown wool outerwear and trench coats. Eveningwear featured taffeta with fluid draping away from the shoulders and bespoke methods to create liquid, plasticized impressions.
As the show progressed, the designer demonstrated his flair for subversion. Gowns crafted with chainmail, sequin-sewn filigrees, and crystal embellishments captured the essence of classical techniques while pushing boundaries with innovative materials and 3D-printed resin stone settings. The collection’s finale showcased a Joan of Arc-inspired byrnie dress. The breathtaking piece of art is covered in galvanized resin and polished chrome. Symbolic of the meeting point between classical techniques and cutting-edge advancements.
The Future of Fashion
Demna’s approach to haute couture reflects a new reality in fashion. One that embraces technology as a complement to the human component of dressmaking. By combining nostalgia with innovation, he has successfully channelled the spirit of Balenciaga. Capturing the essence of sartorial perfection that has always been in the mind of the couturier.
In a time when the fashion world seeks authenticity and true craftsmanship, Balenciaga’s 52nd Couture Collection stands as a beacon of inspiration. Demna’s deft hand and self-restraint have brought forth a refined approach. Proving that haute couture can remain relevant and captivating while honouring the illustrious history of one of the industry’s most celebrated houses. As Balenciaga continues to explore the art of making clothes, it undoubtedly secures Demna Gvasalia’s legacy as an innovative couturier.
