The wait is finally over. Daniel Lee has finally debuted his first Burberry collection at London Fashion Week. Since his appointment as the creative director, everyone has been on the edge of their seats to see what he would bring to the table. So far, Lee’s Burberry AW2023 Collection did not disappoint.
Needless to say, Lee had already earned a glowing testimony at his last appointment for transforming Bottega Veneta from a luxury brand for the elite to a fashion-forward icon. While he was at the creative helm, he revived the brand by incorporating leather goods, and boots in bold colours, which earned the label its “Bottega Green” mania. The question on everyone’s mind was whether Lee could do the same for Burberry.
A New Chapter
Like Tisci, Lee wanted to start on a clean slate shortly after he came onboard. The first order of business was to overhaul the brand’s image. He replaced Riccardo Tisci’s modernist sans serif Burberry with a more traditional rendition by bringing back the 122-year-old ‘Equestrian Knight’ motif. The new logo now features an armoured cavalier jousting on horseback with the word ‘Prorsum’ – the Latin for ‘forward’ – held aloft on a spearhead banner. Following the change and leading to his debut collection, he launched a campaign with celebrities like Shygirl, John Glacier, and Vanessa Redgrave to hint at the new direction. It conveyed a sense of cool, eccentric, diverse, and evasive vibes, which are representative of British fashion and culture.
Burberry Prorsum and Checkered Motifs Make a Comeback
In addition to the image revamp, Lee also decided to bring back the Burberry Prorsum and checkered motifs. The inspiration was flawlessly executed. For instance, he added heritage logo on dresses but also hid it between equally historic checkered motifs. Meanwhile, checkered patterns featured bold colours across tailoring, blanket coats, and knits, along with an evolution of the Equestrian Knight Design (EKD). Other standout pieces include his oversized trench coat with faux fur-trimmed lapels, the deconstructed car coat, and the exaggerated duffle and aviator with softer silhouettes.
Lee also introduced several new elements to the Burberry collection, including a focus on roses. He then added graphic tees that read, “Not All Roses Are Red” and infused various shades of purple and yellow on coats and dresses. For an elevated touch of elegance and flamboyance, he also opted for big with extravaganzas dresses made from multicoloured, minuscule feathers, feathers on breastplates, and faux fur for a touch of opulence. And as for those oversized duffles and totes with bushy fox tails? They’re the “it” bags that everyone will be clamouring for.
It’s clear that Lee is having an impact on Burberry, and the brand is poised to see a resurgence under his leadership. The Burberry AW2023 collection has so far, been very well received. It was cool, eccentric, diverse, and evasive that reflect not just British fashion, but British people. With his unique perspective and eye for design, Lee is bringing Burberry into the 21st century while still honouring the brand’s heritage. Burberry may have found the right successor to take the helm.