The garden of Villa Necchi Campiglio isn’t just another Milan show venue—it’s a curated illusion of ease. Dappled light filtering through parasols. Aperitivi clinking in crystal. A tennis court parked under a refrigerated canopy. At the Gommino Club, Tod’s Spring Summer 2026 Men’s Collection finds its muse not in modernity’s obsession with minimalism, but in something older, slower, and deeply Italian: the spirit of villeggiatura.
In this sun-soaked presentation, Creative Director Matteo Tamburini draws less from global runways and more from his roots—quite literally. A native of Pesaro, the seaside resort town in Italy’s Marche region, Tamburini channels the essence of Italy’s summer rituals: striped ombrelloni, unhurried afternoons, and elegance that doesn’t need to announce itself. This isn’t the over-mined narrative of “quiet luxury.” It’s something warmer, more rooted. Less performative. More felt.
Rewriting Leisurewear with Intent
If Tod’s has always stood for sprezzatura—that art of studied nonchalance—then Tamburini’s latest work evolves the code. The Tod’s Spring Summer 2026 Men’s Collection introduces silhouettes that are undeniably polished, but never precious. Linen-silk safari jackets, unstructured blazers in Pashmy leather, cropped T-Field jackets in newly developed Travel-wool—these are clothes built for mobility, but grounded in craft.
“Each piece has a calibrated functionality,” Tamburini has said. And it shows. Garments move with the body, not against it. Even when tailored, they breathe. A jacket, here, is not a suit of armour. It’s a passport, one that takes you from coastal Italy to the cobbled sidewalks of Seoul or Singapore without ever looking overdressed.
Pashmy: A Fabric That Speaks Softly, Acts Precisely
At the centre of this evolution is Pashmy, Tod’s proprietary leather that mimics the fluidity of silk while retaining the structure of traditional hide. Introduced in previous seasons but refined here, it transforms the usual suspects (bombers, loafers, blazers) into supple, travel-ready staples. The fabric is a message in itself: luxury not as status, but as experience.
Pashmy is joined by other lightweight materials like crepe linen and satin-silk blends—fabrics traditionally associated with womenswear, but repurposed here for masculine silhouettes. It’s a subtle but important note: Tod’s isn’t chasing gender-neutral headlines, but it is expanding the emotional range of menswear—gently, confidently, and without spectacle.
Club Gommino: Where the Icon Gets Reimagined
The Gommino, Tod’s most recognizable icon, gets a refresh this season, but Tamburini resists the temptation to reinvent for reinvention’s sake. Instead, he layers in quiet innovation. There’s the new Red Dot edition, where a single crimson rubber nub serves as a wink to those in the know. Slipper-style loafers debut in both nappa and Pashmy. The classic Gommino sole now underpins sneakers—not to chase a younger audience, but to better serve a man in motion.
This is the paradox of Tod’s in 2026: restraint as radicalism. In a world defined by fashion’s algorithmic churn—drops, collabs, hype cycles—the Gommino remains a reminder that the most timeless pieces evolve from within.
Tamburini’s Tod’s Spring Summer 2026: No Loud Logos, Just Legacy Tweaked
Since taking the reins in late 2023, Tamburini has been cautious, deliberately so. His debut FW24 collection hinted at a designer more interested in refining Tod’s DNA than redrawing it. This SS26 collection continues that path. The tailoring is softer. The bags are sleeker. Even the accessories, like the Di Bag Folio tote or the trekking-inspired backpack, are functional but not utilitarian. They carry the quiet confidence of a brand that understands its customer doesn’t want transformation; he wants resonance.
The Greca Belt, leather intertwined with rope, is emblematic of this shift. It’s a small piece, but one rich in metaphor: old-world materials, reworked with contemporary simplicity.
Beyond Milan: What Tod’s Signals for the Region
Tamburini’s vision lands at a time when menswear is at an inflection point. On one side: maximalism, merch, TikTok virality. On the other: a hunger for clothing that’s not just wearable, but worth keeping. Brands across the spectrum are scrambling to find the language for permanence. Tamburini, however, is fluent in it.
There’s no manifesto here. No tricked-out set design. No hashtag-hungry stunt casting. Just beautiful clothes, made with technical clarity and emotional depth. It’s a rare thing in 2026, a collection that doesn’t just invite wear, but rewards it.
For the Asian menswear market—particularly in cities like Singapore, Tokyo, and Hong Kong—Tod’s proposition this season feels especially prescient. As local luxury consumers become increasingly discerning, and style becomes less about external validation and more about self-definition, Tod’s message hits differently.
This is not about shrinking silhouettes or flash sale exclusivity. It’s about movement. Line. Fabric. Craft. In other words, clothes that still matter, even when the trend cycle doesn’t.
In an industry racing to be seen, Tod’s is quietly building what lasts. And that, in 2026, might be the loudest statement of all.
